The Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary
If you are driving north from Kampala toward Murchison Falls, the landscape starts to change around Nakasongola. The busy roadside markets of Luwero fade away, and the air feels still. This is where you find the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, a 7,000-hectare patch of acacia woodlands and swamp that holds something you cannot find anywhere else in the country. It is the only place in Uganda where you can walk on foot just a few meters away from a southern white rhino. As a guide who has walked these trails for a decade, I can tell you that Ziwa is more than just a stop on a map. It is the result of a long, hard fight to bring back a species that vanished from our national parks over forty years ago.
Many visitors ask me, “Why are the rhinos here and not in the big parks?” To understand that, you have to look at our history. By 1982, Uganda had zero rhinos left in the wild. Decades of civil war and uncontrolled hunting wiped out both the northern white and the eastern black rhino. The last one was seen in Murchison Falls National Park in 1983 before the silence took over. In 2005, a group called the Rhino Fund Uganda, alongside the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA), decided to change that. They started with just six rhinos. Two came from Disney’s Animal Kingdom in the USA, and four came from Solio Ranch in Kenya. They chose this land because it is private, secure, and has a 2-meter-high electric fence. Today, that small group has grown to 58 rhinos (as of June 2025). The goal is simple: breed them here until the population is large enough and then move them back into their original homes, like Ajai Wildlife Reserve and Murchison Falls. When you visit, your entry fees go directly to the 78 rangers who watch these animals 24 hours a day.
“We don’t just track them for tourists; we live with them,” says Kato, a senior ranger at the sanctuary. “Every rhino has a guard. We know their moods, their favorite mud wallows, and who is about to give birth. This place is their nursery.”
Rhino Tracking on Foot
Most people arrive expecting a standard game drive. At Ziwa, we do things differently. You leave your vehicle behind. The experience starts at the ranger post with a briefing. We teach you how to move through the bush and what to do if a rhino decides to move toward you. Usually, we drive a short distance to where the scouts have located a crash (a group of rhinos), and then we set off on foot. Walking through the savannah makes your senses sharper. You hear the crunch of dry grass under your boots and the distant call of a grey crowned crane. When you finally spot a 3,000kg bull grazing quietly, the scale of the animal hits you. You will stay about 6 to 7 meters away. This is close enough to hear them breathe and watch the red-billed oxpeckers hopping across their thick skin to eat ticks.
Field Tips for the Best Encounter
Timing: Aim for the 8:00 AM or 4:00 PM slots. Rhinos are heavy animals, and they hate the heat. In the middle of the day, they often hide deep in the thickets to sleep, which makes them harder to see.
Clothing: Wear long trousers and tucked-in socks. The “safari ants” in the tall grass are no joke, and they can be quite a distraction when you are trying to take a photo.
Silence: Rhinos have poor eyesight but incredible hearing. If you whisper and move slowly, they will stay calm and continue their natural behavior.
The Murchison Link – A Strategic Stopover
Ziwa is located about 176 kilometers north of Kampala. If you are heading to Murchison Falls National Park, it sits almost exactly halfway. Driving directly from Kampala to Murchison can take 6 hours or more, depending on the traffic. Stopping at Ziwa breaks the journey perfectly. Most travelers spend 2 to 3 hours here for the rhino trek and then continue the 2-hour drive to Masindi or the park gates. By adding Ziwa to your trip, you officially complete the “Big Five” experience. While Murchison has lions, leopards, elephants, and buffalo, it does not have rhinos yet. This sanctuary fills that gap.
Birding and the Shoebill Stork
While the rhinos are the stars, the Lugogo Swamp inside the sanctuary is a world-class birding spot. It is one of the few places in Uganda where you are almost guaranteed to see the Shoebill Stork. We take you out in a narrow canoe as the sun comes up. Gliding through the papyrus reeds, you might see the prehistoric-looking Shoebill standing perfectly still, waiting for a lungfish. Besides the Shoebill, we have recorded over 300 bird species here, including Giant Kingfishers, Abyssinian Ground Hornbills, African Fish Eagles, and African Marsh Harriers. The swamp is also home to sitatunga antelopes, which are very shy and rarely seen elsewhere.
Getting There and Staying Over
The sanctuary is located in Nakasongola District, just off the Kampala-Gulu Highway. From Kampala: It is a 3-hour drive. The road is paved and generally in good condition, but Luwero town can be congested. From Masindi: It is a 1-hour drive. Gate Times: The sanctuary is open from 7:30 AM to 6:00 PM daily.
Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary Fees 2026
The following rates are based on the latest UWA and Ziwa Ranch guidelines. Prices are per person and include the ranger guide.
(Note: Prices may change; always check with your tour partner before arrival.)
Where to Stay
Amuka Safari Lodge: This is the high-end option. It has a swimming pool and stone chalets tucked into the woods. It is common to see warthogs and bushbucks grazing right outside your porch.
Ziwa Guesthouse: A simpler, more budget-friendly choice with clean rooms and a restaurant that serves great local tilapia.
Camping: There are dedicated campsites if you have your own gear. Hearing the rhinos “huff” in the dark from your tent is an experience you won’t forget.
Protecting the Future
Every rhino at Ziwa has a name and a story. There is Obama, the first rhino born in Uganda in decades, named because his father was from Kenya and his mother was from the USA. Then there are the newer calves, often named by donors who support the sanctuary. The community around the sanctuary also benefits. Many of our staff members come from the nearby Mukerenge and Nakitoma villages. Before the sanctuary, poaching was seen by some as a way to survive. Now, the local people are the protectors. They see that a live rhino brings jobs, schools, and clinics to the district. When you pay your entrance fee, you aren’t just buying a ticket. You are paying for the boots on the feet of the rangers and the fuel for the patrol vehicles. You are part of the reason the rhino is no longer extinct in Uganda.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to walk near rhinos?
Yes, as long as you follow the ranger’s instructions. White rhinos are generally peaceful grazers. Unlike the aggressive black rhino, they prefer to move away rather than charge. We keep a safe distance and always have a clear exit path.
What is the best month to visit?
Uganda is a year-round destination. However, the dry seasons (June to September and December to February) make the bush thinner, which makes it much easier to spot the rhinos. In the rainy season, the sanctuary is beautiful and green, but you might need sturdy waterproof boots for the mud.
Can I visit Ziwa as a day trip from Kampala?
It is possible, but it makes for a very long day (6 hours of driving total). It is much better to visit as you travel toward Murchison Falls or on your way back to the city.
