The Heart of Buganda: A Visit to Kabaka’s Palace in Mengo
Walking up to the gates of the Lubiri, also known as Kabaka’s Palace, feels different than any other spot in Kampala. You are not just entering a plot of land with a large house. You are stepping into the very soul of the Buganda Kingdom. This palace sits on Mengo Hill. It has stood as a symbol of power 
and culture for many years. When you arrive, the first thing you see is the big gate. A fire burns there. This fire is called Kyoto Ggombolola. It never goes out as long as the King is alive. If the King passes away, the fire is put out. This is one of the oldest customs of the kingdom. It tells every visitor that the kingdom is strong and the leader is present.
The palace grounds cover a lot of space. The main building is called the Twekobe. It has a bright white color and a very formal look. It was built by Sir Edward Mutesa. He was the first president of Uganda after the British left. The building looks like it belongs in Europe. It has tall pillars and big windows. However, the King does not sleep here anymore. This is a point that many people find strange. They ask why a king would not live in his own palace. The reason is sad and heavy. In 1966, the palace was attacked. There was a lot of fighting, and blood was spilled on the floors. In the culture of the Baganda people, a King cannot live where such things happened. Today, the palace is used for big meetings and royal ceremonies. You can walk around the outside and see the beautiful grass. You can see the old cannons that were left behind. These cannons show the military history of the place.
Walking the Royal Mile and the 52 Clans
To truly understand the palace, you must look at the road that leads to it. This road is called the Royal Mile. Locally, people call it Kabaka Anjagala. This name means the King loves me. It is a straight road that connects the palace to the Bulange. The Bulange is the parliament building for the Buganda Kingdom. The road is exactly one mile long. This design was inspired by a trip the King took to Scotland. He saw the Royal Mile in Edinburgh and wanted something similar for his people.
As you walk down this road, look at the trees on both sides. There are 52 candlenut trees. Each tree represents one of the 52 clans of the Buganda people. These clans are the building blocks of society. Each person in Buganda belongs to a clan. Each clan has a totem. A totem is usually an animal or a
plant. For example, some people belong to the Elephant clan. Others belong to the Lungfish clan. You will see statues of these totems along the path. These statues show the animals and explain what each clan does for the King. Some clans are in charge of the King’s clothes. Others look after the royal drums. This walk helps you see how organized the kingdom is. It shows that everyone has a role to play.
In the middle of this road, there is a special roundabout. It is called the Nantawetwa. This roundabout has a gate. Most cars have to drive around it. But the gate is opened only for the King. He is the only one who can drive straight through. This is because the King does not go around things. He goes straight to his goal. If you are walking, you can see the guard who stays there to watch the gate. This part of the city is very quiet and respectful. It feels very different from the busy markets in the center of Kampala.
The Dark History of the Idi Amin Torture Chambers
While the palace is a place of pride, it also holds a very dark secret. On the edge of the grounds, there is a concrete building. It looks like a simple storage room from the outside. In 1971, this place was built as an armory. The work was done by engineers from Israel. They built it to keep guns and bombs safe. But when Idi Amin took power, he changed the use of this building. He turned it into a prison and a place of pain.
Walking into these chambers is a somber moment. The air feels cool and damp. You walk through a dark tunnel. There are five main cells. Each cell is not very big. But the history books tell us that hundreds of people were crowded into each one at the same time. There was no light and very little
air. The most terrible part was the water. The floors were filled with water. The guards would put electricity into the water. If a prisoner tried to move or escape, they would be hit by the power.
If you look closely at the walls, you can still see marks. There are handprints in the dirt. There are words written in charcoal. Some people wrote their names. Others wrote messages to their families. One message says that they were killed, but their children would live on. It is estimated that over 200,000 people lost their lives in this small space. This is a part of Uganda’s history that is hard to hear. But it is important to see. It shows the strength of the people who survived those times. It makes you appreciate the peace that the city has today. Seeing the contrast between the beautiful palace and these dark cells is a powerful thing.
The Bulange Parliament Building and Royal Rule
At the other end of the Royal Mile sits the Bulange. This is a very grand building. It is where the Lukiiko meets. The Lukiiko is the parliament of the kingdom. They talk about laws and how to help the people. The design of the Bulange is very impressive. It has a large roof and many windows. It
looks like a government building you might see in London or Washington.
Inside the Bulange, there are many photos of past kings. You can learn about the history of the monarchy. You can see the royal throne. The building is very clean and well-kept. It shows that the Buganda Kingdom is still very active today. Even though Uganda has a central government, the kingdom still looks after its culture and land. The officials here are very happy to talk about their work. They explain how the clans work together. They talk about the school systems and the hospitals that the kingdom runs. This part of the visit shows the modern side of the culture. It shows that they are looking to the future while keeping their old ways.
Logistics for Your 2026 Visit
Planning your time at the palace is easy if you know the facts. For 2026, the entrance fees have stayed steady. If you are a visitor from another country, the fee is 50,000 Uganda Shillings. This is about 15 US dollars. If you live in Uganda but are not a citizen, the fee is 30,000 Shillings. For Ugandan citizens, it is 10,000 Shillings. This price includes the walk through the grounds and the entry into the torture chambers. You do not need to book weeks in advance. You can show up at the gate and pay. The best time to arrive is in the morning. The sun is not too hot yet. Kampala can get very warm by noon. Most people spend about two hours here.
You will need good walking shoes. The Royal Mile is a long walk if you go all the way to the Bulange. You can also take a boda-boda, which is a local motorbike. Tell the driver you want to go to the Lubiri in Mengo. They all know where it is. When you are inside, please be respectful. This is a royal site. Do not shout or run. If you want to take photos, ask first. Most areas are fine for pictures. But some parts of the torture chambers are kept quiet out of respect for the dead. Wear clothes that cover your shoulders and knees. This is the local custom for visiting important places. It shows that you value the culture of the people you are visiting.
The Cultural Triangle vs Other Kampala Sites
Many people ask if they should see the palace or the Kasubi Tombs. The truth is that they are very different. The Kasubi Tombs are where the kings are buried. That place is more about spirits and the past. The palace is about power, leadership, and the living kingdom. I think you should see both. But if you only have one afternoon, the palace offers more variety. You get the walk on the Royal Mile, the history of the parliament, and the story of the torture chambers.
Another site in the city is the National Museum. The museum is great for facts and old tools. But it is all behind glass. At the palace, you are walking on the actual ground where history happened. You can touch the trees that represent the clans. You can stand in the cells where the prisoners stood. This makes the history feel real. It is not just a story in a book. It is a physical place that you can feel.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you go inside the main Twekobe palace building?
No, visitors are not allowed inside the Twekobe. It is used for royal functions and official business. You can walk around the outside and see the design. Most of the tour happens on the grounds and in the torture chambers where the history is most detailed.
Is it safe to visit the Idi Amin torture chambers?
Yes, it is very safe. The chambers are a historical site and are well-kept for visitors. The tunnel and cells are solid concrete. A local expert will be with you to tell the stories. It is a somber place, so it is best for adults and older children.
How much does it cost to enter Kabaka’s Palace in 2026?
For international visitors, the fee is 50,000 Uganda Shillings. Foreign residents pay 30,000 Shillings. Ugandan citizens pay 10,000 Shillings. This fee covers the palace grounds and the torture chambers. You can pay at the main gate when you arrive at the site in Mengo.
How do I get to the palace from Kampala city center?
The easiest way is by a boda-boda or a taxi. It is about a 15-minute ride from the center. Just ask for the Lubiri in Mengo. You can also walk the Royal Mile from the Bulange building if you want to see the trees and clan statues.
What should I wear when visiting the palace?
You should wear modest clothing. It is best to cover your shoulders and wear long trousers or skirts. This is a royal and cultural site. Wearing respectful clothes shows you value the traditions of the Buganda Kingdom. It also makes your visit much more comfortable.
Is the fire at the gate always burning?
Yes, the fire called Kyoto Ggombolola burns 24 hours a day. It only goes out if the King passes away. It is a very important symbol of the King’s life and presence. There are people whose only job is to make sure the fire stays lit.
The fire at the palace gate has a story that most visitors never hear. If you want to see the Twekobe and the torture chambers without the crowds, we can help. Ask us for a quote now to secure your spot for a 2026 cultural tour.
